This visit to Cucina was actually my second in about three months. My first was for Phil Ascough’s popular supper club in April, when the place was packed with businesspeople who’d pre-ordered from a set three-course menu that the staff were busily ferrying to each table in quick succession; the “so, what do you do?” and “good to see you again” chat made for a loud, but cheery, hubbub. On the...
